Tag Archives: shotcrete

Cleaning out the slag

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Posted on May 21, 2015 by

Now this was a tough long weekend.FamilyCleanup

Basically, the basement of our earth sheltered home was filled with approximately 11 cubic yards of concrete slag that needed to be broken up and removed so we could prep for pouring the basement floor.

It was something we have known we needed to do since last year, but were putting it off for obvious reasons.

 

 

Here is the video:

Why did this mess happen?

All this concrete was wasted shotcrete that wasn’t on the walls and should not have been on the floor either.

As you may recall, I had used steel studs to frame the basement and then placed metal lath on the inside to “catch” the shotcrete.  I had been told (by the shotcrete guys) that the lath would be enough to prevent much of the shotcrete (peastone) from blowing thru.  I was told to expect a thin layer of concrete on the inside, thin enough that it would break up into small fragments just by walking on it and that it would actually save me from needing to add as much pea stone later.

Watching the shotcrete being applied, it did appear that not much passed thru when it was applied at a downward angle onto the previous shotcrete.  They did do it this way for the first couple levels, and actually raised a scaffold jack platform twice as they went.  But then they got a bit tired and started shooting horizontally and even at an upward angle.  This allowed much more shotcrete to pass thru.

The effect was cumulative with blow thru coming from so many different angles, each adding its own layer of concrete.  The round central room was especially bad for this with at least 3 layers of 2 inch thick concrete across the floor.

And once the crew was working on the inner walls, there was also “rebound”, shotcrete that doesn’t stick to the wall, and “trimmings”, concrete that is cut off the wall because too much was applied in the first place.

All this concrete (that I paid for) ended up on the floor, but not in a good, “wow, you got bonus concrete floor along with your shotcrete” kind of way.  On average, I would say we had about 3 or 4 inches across most of the floor (in several layers), and up to 8 or more inches near the walls, especially in the corners.  It was uneven and lumpy and even had boot prints in it.  The whole feeling was somewhat “war torn” and more than a little depressing.

When I setup the main level, I plan to back the metal lath with fiberglass screen.  The metal lath will still provide the strength to catch the shotcrete, but the fiberglass screen will prevent any material from passing through.

 

 

MetalLathFiberglassScreen

Gallery

Thought I would try to put some extra pics in here…

And the Story.

I like to include the text of the video, along with some extra info that doesn’t fit in a narration, so that the content is google searchable.

For this job, I had hired some teens, rented a jack hammer and taken the day off work to make the long weekend even longer.

The big question was, “How would I get this slag out of the basement?”  The final solution that I came up with was a Bagster dumpster that I got from Home Depot for 30$.

bagster

The plan was to load it up and use my trusty skid steer in to lift it up and out of the basement.

It took a bit of trial and error to figure out the best way to lift the bag and to empty it, but fortunately, we had lots of tries to get it right.  You can see how we did it in the video.

The bagster is supposed to be for only a single use, but it  held up very well, load after heavy load, for a number of days. The only tear was caused by dragging it up the rough wall in the first lift.

TeensThis first day, we were mostly focused on the edges where the thickest concrete was because I didn’t want to rent that 75 lb jack hammer for a second day.  The heavy jackhammer was actually very effective on the thick concrete, but kept getting stuck in the thinner stuff.  For that, the 11 lb breaker was much more effective.  My Dewalt hammer drill also got a work out.  At the start of the day, I couldn’t get the teens to touch the power tools, but by the end of the day, they were much more comfortable with me and the tools and were taking turns on the jack hammer.

On Saturday, my parents were in town, even though I warned them that we would be taking on the worst job of the build so far.  I also hired Zack again, he was one of the teens from the day before.

My father got to cutting a slot in the footings (doorway) for the radon tube while the rest of us got cracking on the concrete slag.  Our radon tube was made of a 4 inch corrugated drain pipe, wrapped in landscapers fabric to keep dirt out.  It just gives radon an easy way to escape so it won’t build up under the basement floor.

Then my father and I worked on the floor drains while the others just kept right on cracking up that concrete.  In order to get the slope correct from the floor drain in the central room all the way to the outer wall, we had to cut open the tops of the footings.

DrainPipe_Middle

 

We had planned for holes in the footings to run these pipes, and I had even come prepared with 4″ PVC to use to form them.  However, the guys doing our footings told me they brought their own 4″ corrugated drain pipe, which they nailed in place very quickly.  The problem was that the flexible pipe “floated” up in the middle when the footings were poured. Instead of being a straight sloped hole thru the concrete, they bowed to the point that we couldn’t even get the 2″ pipes thru.  I guess they were not used to the footings being so wide.  Narrower footings probably wouldn’t have as much deformation due to “floating”.  You may recall this same issue cost me time and money during several other stages of the build. Hopefully this was the last of it.

 

Then we came back out again on the holiday Monday, just my wife and kids.  Sherri and I cracked things up with the 11 lb “breaker” and the boys scrambled to collect the pieces into the buckets.  When the buckets filled up, one of us would dump the bucket in the bagster.  The boys were motivated by being paid 1$ per 5 gallon bucket.  They worked for several hours before wearing out.

With the big chunks finally removed, we raked the smaller bits and then brought in some pea stone, which is required by code in my area.

I came back on another afternoon with Zack and my friend Aaron to get the second half of the pea stone down and rake it all level.  At one point in the video, you can see Aaron intentionally took a pea stone shower, just to see what it would feel like.  I don’t think he will do that again.

BuildingPermit_blurThe final product was a a peastone under-floor that meets building code.  The black pipes are to channel radon out of the home and the white pipes are plumbing or drains.  The inspector approved the work and we were able to rake the pea stone level and move on to the next step.

Next step is to get the vapor barrier, insulation and radiant floor tubes down here so we can pour the basement floor.

 

Life After Shotcrete

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Posted on August 23, 2014 by

Since the shotcrete went up, I have been working on other things such as getting my drain tile in and getting the basement plumbing done. That is covered in the previous post (posted later in time, but shown lower down in the list of posts because of its date).

This is how things looked after the shotcrete was finished (and we got down the drain tile)

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Progress is being hampered by the fact that the shotcrete left a lot more concrete on the floor than expected.  Instead of being a thin crust that breaks easily, it is 2 to 6 inches thick and pretty solid across the whole floor.  This was mostly due to shotcrete blowing thru the lath and on to the floor inside. The mechanical room has it the worst because it is a small room with shotcrete coming in from all sides.  I will need to rent or hire a jack hammer to sort it out properly.

This shot is after spending an hour with a power chisel.

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I dug out several other areas for drains and to allow the radon pipe to exit…

But I still need to run the drains and radon pipes thru the rest of the structure, and I would guess that this lumpy surface will make it much harder to get the underfloor insulation and radiant floor tubes in place.  I am even a bit concerned about broken pieces of concrete tearing the vapor barrier.

I have a crew lined up to get in there to chip the rest of it out, but they are not available for another week or two.  And of course, this was not in the budget.

Waterproofing

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Posted on August 20, 2014 by

Before we can back-fill against the basement, we needed to clear the area, waterproof and put in the drain tile…  We also needed things like radon tubes and floor drains to exit the building.

My wife, Sherri, had to help a lot this week…  And as she puts it, “It wasn’t princess work!”  I did try to hire some people, especially when I realized I would have to carry down and place the 4 yards of pea stone by bucket, but it didn’t work out and we were on our own.

The video is here…

 

Stripping

I started with stripping the bracing away.  In most cases the wood was perfectly good with only a few screw holes.  I will get to use it all again on the second floor.  Actually, the site has only generated a couple bags of garbage and a box for recycling all summer, and that was mostly lunch trash dropped by the contractors working on the site.

I left the insulation on the side of the window well.  It was meant to be forming, but with an earth sheltered umbrella, it helps to insulate the earth where ever you can.

StripForms

 

WaterproofingGracoMagnum_X7

We bought a power sprayer from home Depot (Graco Magnum X7), which worked pretty well.   We justified the purchase by reminding ourselves how much work it had been to paint the ceilings in our current house when we moved in.  This sprayer will come in handy when we do one last paint before we put our existing house on the market next spring.  As for the current task of spraying on the waterproofing, we saved a lot of time (and got better coverage) by not trying to roll the water proofing over that rough surface.  With only one sprayer, it was a one person job and Sherri took care of it.

As for the water proofing its self, we used ProteShield Elastomeric Waterproofing Sealer.    We actually applied it about 50% thicker than the directions specified.   The instructions said it would dry clear, but we were surprised that it appeared to “disappear” after just a few minutes (and faster on smoother sections of the wall).  It was like it wasn’t even there.

When we got the waterproofing inspected later, the building inspector was concerned about it.  He gave us a “partial” pass, and told us we could proceed at our own risk, but if the waterproofing doesn’t qualify, we will need to dig it up and do it over again.  We proceeded with the back-filling on faith in Home Depot and (later that evening) sent him this technical data sheet, which mentions that it is for above and below grade waterproofing of basements and foundations.  It even says to give it 48 hours to cure before back-filling, we gave it double that.  However, the inspector says it is missing a mention of some specific government tests that would qualify the waterproofing for use as below grade waterproofing.  The inspector is going to try and contact the company to see if they have this documentation, and if not, he is going to insist that we redo it.

Drain tile

I suppose drain tile used to be made of ceramic tiles curved into tubes and then fired.  In hispanic areas, I have seen them use the same tiles they use on the roofs.  These were placed end to end to help carry water away from foundations.  Now days, they are made of HDPE plastic that lasts forever.  Ours was also covered in a nylon sock to keep the sand from clogging it.

Actually, our site doesn’t even really need drain tile.  The sand just lets the water fall thru it, but the building code says we need it and that we need it to be covered in pea stone (an extra cost/hassle that shouldn’t be necessary for such a sandy site).

Another neighbor in the area told me that he put in the drain tile around his house to satisfy the inspection, but then didn’t actually run it to anywhere, since that part is not actually inspected.

I agree that these drains will probably never carry water, but I decided they should at least do something.  I am going to use them as earth tubes to carry fresh air into the house.  Sherri doesn’t like the idea of carrying fresh air thru corrugated pipes because water can sit in them and cause problems (mold, humidity)…  But I also know of many success stories.  I wanted to try it out and I can always seal them up if it doesn’t work out.

The first day that we laid the drain tile, the battery died in the camera, so you don’t see how many hours it took me to get it all sloping just right.

The big hassle on the second day (Saturday) was carrying all that pea stone down into the “pit”, bucket by bucket.  We didn’t make our Saturday night deadline.  The inspector is only available for a few slots each week, so if we missed Monday for the pre-backfill inspection, we would need to put off the back-filling and schedule the inspector for Wednesday…

That was the the day my sister was coming into town…  We would need to come back and finish up then.

Insulation

You can’t see it in the video because Nick and I were working on the other side of the basement.  We initially hoped that the waterproofing would be sticky enough to “glue” it, but it was not sticky at all.  So we waited for the waterproofing to dry (2 hours cure time), and then tried to glue 2 inch thick Foamular 250 to the walls using “Liquid Nails“…  That didn’t work out at all because we couldn’t keep the stiff foam pressed against the curved wall long enough for the liquid nails to dry.  We decided to add the insulation as we back-filled…  The dirt will hold it in place very well.