Adding the Umbrella

In the previous post, we added the first layer of dirt over the home.  In this next step, we add the “umbrella” layer to keep the first layer of dirt dry and warm.  The umbrella is made of layers of rigid insulation and billboard vinyls and topped with a pond liner and carpet.  Of course, I’ll try to give you some details into the practical construction of this umbrella, but first, the timelapse video.

The Video

Not so easy

When I read John Hait’s book oh PAHS (Passive Anual Heat Storage) he talks about coming up with the umbrella idea because it made it easier to cover the dome in insulation.  So I guess I thought it would be the easy part and didn’t really put as much pre-thought into the install as I have for other aspects of this home.  However, I was very wrong.  It was not easy and don’t let the video make you think it was.

The first challenge was getting the pieces to stay where you put them.  This was hard enough on the flat spots and only got more and more challenging for the steeper slopes.  I tried a number of things like using wood stakes (I used my table saw to cut a 2×4 into wood weges that were 1/4 inch thick and 6 inches long and pushed them into the sheet to give it traction).  The stakes helped with the first layer, but I couldn’t use them on the second.  Tape helped a little, but was often foiled by the tiniest amount of sand or moisture. I even tried sliding the insulation between layers of vinyl, but that was difficult to do precisely.

The second challenge was getting the shapes all cut just right.  It was enough of a hassle to cut away for the skylights, etc.  But dealing with trying to fit rigid rectangles to the compound curvature of a hillside as the sand shifted under your feet was incredibly frustrating.

Then we added the billboard vinyls, which wasn’t too bad.  Gluing them with the HH-66 was also pretty straightforward.  But once the vinyls were on, the insulation became more difficult to manage. If the underlying layer shifted, it was very difficult to get back exactly how you wanted it (butt jointed with no gaps).  It also became much much harder to add the next layer of insulation.  Even walking on it was difficult in the steep areas and we kept sliding off.  Normally, I would have considered the slide as fun, but it wasted time and messed up the insulation again.

Getting the giant heavy pond liner up there (hardly shown in the video) was also a challenge and dragging it messed up the underlying vinyls and insulation.  Pretty stressful actually.

Then the carpet layer helped…  It was pretty good in terms of ease of install and its weight actually locked in the underlying layers pretty well while also making it easier to walk around.  Most of it was in pretty decent shape and some of it was even brand new (trimming from an install?), but some of it was gross.  I recall one had fingernails and other nastiness on it as if it had been stripped from a repossessed home where the evicted tenants were not big on cleaning (I assume people that disgusting were evicted ;).

Regrets

In the end, I had a few regrets.

Primarily, I wished I had put a bit more insulation right up against the vertical sides of the building.  It would have been easy to add it there and I wouldn’t have had to worry so much about it after the dirt was added and those steep sections were just so much harder to insulate.

I also wished I had dumpster dived for a couple more carpet loads.  It was clear to us that carpet prevented erosion.  We only had erosion in the spots that had no carpet.  You could see that the erosion stopped in nice square shapes along the edges of the carpet layers.  We ended up coming back and adding carpet to those spots, but it was much more work later then it would have been before adding the final dirt.

I am not yet sure if I will regret not putting more insulation.  As I said, it is about running out of time and money.  Did I insulate enough?  Was it thick enough?  Did it go out wide enough?  Even John Hait says he didn’t think he went wide enough.  I think I am OK there, but wonder if I will regret not spending a bit more on insulation at this stage.

Silt Fence

The silt fence was a county requirement with a fine of several thousand dollars if it wasn’t installed after excavation.  The regulations include that it should be installed correctly, which requires a trench first so the bottom of the fence can be buried to actually catch any silt that runs off the site.  To do this, there is really nothing better than a little tractor with a plow.  I highly recommend it to save hours of annoying digging.

One other pro-tip is to screw a piece of scrap wood as a furring strip to the stapled side of each post.  Those staples don’t last long and it is much easier to add a strip of wood now that will hold the fabric in place permanently.  Or maybe you prefer to go back and fix the fence every few weeks.

Gallery

A gallery of pics…  A bit light for this section because no one was feeling like taking pics and it was also difficult to get any good angles on the umbrella anyway.

Building a CMU retaining wall around the office apse

In order to bury the office apse at the front of our earth sheltered home, I needed to build a retaining wall with a window in it. For this corner of the build, I decided to use CMU’s, Concrete Masonry Units, AKA concrete blocks. We also had to insulate the apse structure.

I may come back and add some detail here.  For now, I’ll just post the video and gallery of pics to tell the story.

The Video

The Gallery

Here are some pics to help tell the story.

Prepping the eyebrows for Shotcrete

While prepping the tower and mezzanine, we also worked on the bedroom eyebrows.  It was just too big for one video.  More on what “bedroom eyebrows” are after the video.

The Video

Bedroom Eyebrows

Bedroom eyebrows are not some sort of double entendre that only earth sheltered home builders get after a long hard day. They are simply the structures we used to keep dirt off the windows while still having a hilly appearance.  You see them in Peter Vetsch earth shelters all the time.  However, I suspect (from construction photos) that Peter’s eyebrows are big heat radiators that drastically reduce the thermal efficiency of his buildings.  I wanted to avoid that problem, so I needed mine to be thermally isolated from the actual home.

I did this by separating the shotcrete into two phases.  After completing the bedroom shotcrete and waterproofing it, I added a saddle of 4 inch thick XPS Foamular 250…  This is the kind that can handle 25 psi of pressure and is intended for burial.  Above the XPS, I build another rebar framework and put shotcrete over that.  Or at least, that is what I wanted to do.

In more practical terms, I used tapcon screws to mount treaded wood 2x4s directly to the bedroom shotcrete.  Then I drilled holes in the 2x4s to hold the rebar framework…  So there is a little edge all the way around where I sacrificed long-term insulation for a more buildable structure.  I have since considered other ways I could have done this and may do it differently if I ever had to do it again, but I don’t think the performance will be too bad.  Certainly still better than a more traditional house.

The Gallery

I am tired of typing, you may be tired of reading, so let’s just skip to the gallery.

Radiant Basement Floor

Earth sheltered homes normally get very scaled down heating systems (some even skip them entirely).  Where I live, a heating system is required for occupancy, so rather than get an expensive furnace that I would hardly use, I decided to go with an inexpensive “on demand mini boiler” hot water radiant system.  I got quotes for install that were as high as $60,000, but figured I could do it for a small fraction of that, so I decided to pull my own mechanical permit and do this myself.  I read a couple books and planned it out.  Then I bought the manifolds and supplies from PexUniverse.com (less than 400$ for the basement).

We got it all installed and inspected (our first mechanical inspection) and then had Dysert Concrete handle the actual pour of the floor.

ExplainingTheSituation_40

 

Installing the radiant floor was easy, but some of the recordings didn’t work out, so the final video is shorter than usual.  You can read the story below for the details that wouldn’t fit in the narration.

The Video:

The Story:

I started with working out the layout on the computer.  Building code requires that no circuit be longer than 300 ft, and most experts recommend that you balance the lengths of the radiant tubes, so you definitely want to plan it out ahead of time.

I tried a number of different plans that ran the tubes thru the hall to the various rooms, but it was just too inefficient and cumbersome to get things “zoned” well that way.  In the end, I decided to drill some 5/8ths inch holes thru the base of the mechanical room wall to simplify the layout.  With the right tools (DeWalt hammer drill and a long 5/8ths inch bit), that was pretty easy.

We had leveled out the pea stone after the “underground inspection”, but David helped me do some final leveling of the peastone and then Zack helped get the 6 mil plastic down.  This plastic is important for keeping water vapor from the ground out of your concrete floor and is required by building code.  It also helps keep the radon out, etc.

Six MIL?

A mil is not a millimeter.  Six MIL is six thousands of an inch or roughly 0.152mm.  Before most English speaking countries switched from the imperial measurement system to metric, they would have called it a “thou”, based on the Germanic route word for “thousandth”, but for some reason, America decided to go “romantic” language based with this one and called it a “MIL” instead (based on the word for “thousandth” in languages like French or Italian).  This is a similar etymology to how the rest of the world got the word “milli” for the Metric system, hence the similarity.

HuskyWe don’t use “MIL” much in the USA, except for quantifying thin film thickness.

Since it is difficult to imagine things in thousands of an inch;

  • 1 MIL = grocery store bag
  • 2 MILS = Garbage Bag
  • 3 MILS = Husky Contractor Bag
  • 17 MILS = Pond Liner
  • 35 MILS = Credit Card

 

JigSaw Puzzle

David tossed us some sheets of insulation and we got started on the jigsaw puzzle.  My rooms are unusually shaped and since they didn’t actually stock those shapes at Home Depot, we cheated by cutting pieces.  We started with measuring, but usually ended up trimming each piece iteratively until it fit.  We taped all the pieces together and shoved trimmings into any gaps along the wall.  Not too hard, but certainly more time consuming than a square room might have been.  This probably wasted about 15$ worth of insulation, so not too bad.

Radiant tube

I marked the radiant tube layout directly o n the insulation based on that balanced plan I had carefully worked out on my computer.  I used piece of scrap wood marked with the right size increments and a can of upside down surveyors paint.  In addition to basic tic marks to follow, I also painted in the end loops so the whole plan would be pretty easy to follow.

Radiant_Layout_DrilledStapling the Pex tubes down was easy and fun, Sherri and I took care of most of it, but the boys were very eager to try it themselves.  I imagine it would have been quite a lot more difficult (and much less fun) without that commercial grade tool we used.  The tool cost quite a bit (~200$) but is very well built and I will use it a lot… I also plan to sell it and recoup most of the money at the end of the project anyway.

Radiant_Layout_Apse

 

Connecting the pex to the manifold was straightforward and easy.  There are some simple little brass connector bits and you just tighten a nut to hold it all together.

Manifold

Pex Stapler saved us a lot of timeI got the Manifold, Pex pipe, the Pex stapler, staples and the pressure tester from “PexUniverse.com”.  I had looked at lots of other sites (including sites that put it all together for you, such as Radiantcompany.com), but this one had the best prices and the best hardware.  There are also easy to find “coupon codes”.

John (my brother-in-law) and Zack helped me finish off the third loop.

My sister Bonnie was in town and mostly helped me with the ICFs (another post/video), but she made it into this video by helping me to fill the tubes with water so they wouldn’t float in the concrete. I had been trying to pour it from the bucket into the funnel, but she had the idea to siphon it from the bucket, which was much easier and didn’t get us as wet.

Then we pressurized the system (according to building code) so we would know if anyone punctured the pipe before the concrete set.

Concrete

Concrete day arrived and the guys started with putting down some six by six wire reinforcement.  This was left over from the garage floor and will help prevent cracks from growing.  It also helps protect the pipe and keep it all down under the concrete.

The concrete was pumped in from overhead (renting the pump truck cost ¼ of the job, but was well worth it in terms of making things go easier), and spread level.  They came back an hour later and hand troweled it smooth.

Concrete_AwYea

Costs

In all, I paid less than 1$/sft for the insulation, radiant tube, manifold and supplies, then 3$ for the concrete work plus an extra ~500$ for the pump truck and ~1100$ worth of concrete…  So, not bad.

 

I hope to get the “quad deck” in soon so we can put another concrete floor over this basement.

 

GoPro vs Wingscapes timelapse camera

Here is the video…

And so the text would be searchable…

I got my Wingscapes Timelapse Cam years ago when I first bought the property… Originally, it was that so I could trace the shadows moving across my lot (important for passive solar positioning), but I ended up enjoying recording the construction process with it also.  Lately, I have wanted a better camera.  Eventually, my whining paid off and my wife got me a GoPro Hero3 for my birthday.  “White” just means that it is at the low end of the GoPro video range, but it still has the timelapse feature that I wanted.

For a comparative test, I mounted the two cameras side by side and recorded some timelapse footage for an “odd job” that I did (see the video link above).

The “odd job” was building a giant wall out of bales of rigid insulation… Why? I wanted to put a tarp across the back of the Quonset hut to stop the wind from blowing thru.  This would allow me to use the garage as a workshop…  But it was like a wind tunnel in there and I couldn’t keep the tarp still long enough to bolt it on…  I had these bales of rigid insulation already stacked somewhere else on the property, and I decided to restack them at the back of the quonset hut to block the wind…  It worked very well, and I chuckled at the idea of having an R-value of ~240.  At some later point, I will put up ICFs to form a proper wall, but I imagine even that would have been difficult in the wind tunnel environment of that quonset hut…

 

Anyway, let’s compare…

Wingscapes Pros:

Much better battery life (days or weeks with 4AA batteries) and better time lapse options for longer duration’s (10 seconds to daily)…

This makes sense because that is what it was designed for.

Wingscapes Cons:

A tiny pinhole lens in a large heavy housing that can be a challenge to setup.  It also has manual focus (that I have messed up a few times) and a basic, but awkwardly placed, view finder with no way to really tell how the shots are coming out until you download them.

I really can’t understand why the wingscapes cam needs to be so bulky or why the birdwatchers who buy them don’t demand better optics.

WingscapesVsGoPro_03

GoPro Pros:

Much better optics, plus its lens is very wide angle, which will help with the interior shots later.  The GoPro is also much smaller and easier to move around.  The GOPro settings can actually be controlled from my phone and my phone screen actually works as the view finder (which I thought was really cool until I realized how quickly the wi-fi used up the battery).

The timelapse options are actually better on the low end of the range…  With a number of options between Half a second and 60 seconds…  It also has much better Video options. Even though mine is just the white edition, it gives HD up to 60FPS.

And this all makes sense because this camera is meant to be strapped to an adrenalin junkie and pushed off a cliff.  Its timelapse options are more intended for capturing a half hour of sunset than a day at the build site.

GoPro Cons:

The battery life is poor (for a timelapse).  It can do 3 hours of video at 60 FPS, so I expected that it could go for ages on timelapse at 0.2 FPS, but it didn’t make much more than 4 hours, (even without the wi-fi viewfinder turned on, which drains the power even faster)…  And when the battery dies, it is a special GOPro battery, so I can’t replace it with a spare.   Also, the color seems less vivid on the GoPro, but I have only tested it on grey days and with pretty grey subject matter

WingscapesVsGoPro_01In summary…  I don’t plan to get rid of either camera.  They each have their place and will help me catch good footage and we try to get this house built over the summer.