Today was day 3 of the footings… Our first day pouring concrete on the site. The actual work was really all done in about 2 hours, half an hour if you just count the concrete pour time, so it is hard to call it a day. The inspector, Dale, needs to check the footings before the pour and his MWF 10 to noon schedule meant we couldn’t fit this into Monday afternoon like the footings guys wanted.
Here is today’s timelapse video;
Thunderstorms were predicted for 1:00, so I called the building inspector to see if he could put me early on his rounds. He agreed and put me first. I texted Doug Dysert by 8:30 and hoped that would be enough lead time to move the pour earlier…
The inspector arrived just after 10 AM. Keep in mind, this was my first inspection, so I was a little bit nervous. The first thing he did was check out my posted permits. Then he went down into the excavation and gave the forms a good look. The inspector was actually very friendly and said the design was a “work of art” and the execution was “very well done”. He found a couple spots where the rebar was a bit too close to the boards (there is supposed to be at least 2” between the rebar and the forms) and told me to sort that out before the pour. We chatted a bit and then he handed me my “Inspection Notice”, with “approved” written on it. He left by 10:15.
I texted Doug to say we were all ready for concrete, but it turned out that the concrete was scheduled to come at noon anyway. Two of Doug’s guys (Don and Chris from the previous day) arrived at about 11:45. The concrete mixers (two of them) and the pump truck all arrived around noon. It was pretty awesome to see the pump truck extend its huge feet and then unfold its 135 ft arm. I wish the timelapse camera had been angled to catch it.
The concrete pump truck was pretty huge. Its 400 horsepower Cummins diesel motor powers 4 powerful pumps that push the concrete at 4800 psi. The operator told me that he could pump up to 210 yards per hour, but he had it set on the slowest possible setting for my small job. I got my order slip from the driver to confirm that it was 2500 PSI concrete with a slump of 5 inches. It had the ¾ inch natural stone aggregate (6A) along with sand and fly ash.
Fly ash is what Charles Dickens would have seen coming out of the smoke stacks of dirty coal factories before they started capturing it. Trapping that pollutant it in concrete is a good thing. It is also pretty much free (waste product) and replaces some of the Portland cement, which has high embodied energy (and cost). Its tiny particle size increases workability (think tiny ball bearings) of the concrete, so the water content can be reduced, which increases strength and durability… It is really a win-win additive.
Then the clouds parted and the sun came out. The concrete got pumping and things went pretty fast after that. They pumped out most of the 23 cubic yards of concrete in about half an hour. I don’t think the crew had enough people to keep up like they would have preferred. I jumped in to help with the screeding. Even the pump truck operator helped moved the concrete pipe around when he got tired of waiting. The concrete was pretty thick with ¾ inch stones. None of the footings blew out, but it did bulge in a couple spots, which used up more concrete than we were expecting…
For footings, they just screed, they don’t trowel or float. Since the tops of the forms were already level, screeding was just a simple process of “sawing” a board back and forth over the top of the form to level it out.
We ended up needing to use the concrete that was in the bottom half of the long pipe to fill in the last bit of the forms. The pump driver basically dumped it on the sand at the top end of the driveway and we had to bucket it over and down to the footing. Don was using a 5 gallon bucket and I was using a 2 gallon bucket (only other bucket available), but I joked that at least I was filling mine up all the way.
With the last bit of concrete, I built myself a 5 gallon bucket rocket stove. I made the inner form out of cardboard (the night before) and wrapped rope and saran wrap around it to “spiral” the flow. My hope is that it will make a little flame tornado that will push even more heat into the concrete and increase the draft further. I’ll make a separate post on that if it works. This concrete wasn’t exactly designed for high heat so it may not last long.
Then the rain came down again. It was actually a line of storms, hundreds of miles long, all lined up to pass over my site, and nowhere else. They guys thought it would blow over soon and decided to wait it out in the truck. I got in with them and asked how long we would be able to push the vertical rebar dowels into the concrete. They told me not to worry about it, we had “hours”…
Well, nearly an hour later, and the township tax assessor called and asked me to drop off a copy of the plans. The assessor had been out to view the site while we were not there and was totally confused by my footing. She was only about 2 miles away, and I wasn’t doing anything right then, so I took the plans over to her. I hope she devalues the home as much as my bank’s appraiser does. Unfortunately, she seems to like it.
When I got back, Doug was on the phone. Understandably, He didn’t want his guys to sit there waiting any more. He said they could just drill the rebar in later (for ~60$/hr). As I hung up with him, the rain stopped. We went down to check out the concrete and found it was already too stiff to hammer the rebar into anyway. It wasn’t my plan, but now I will have more time to carefully mark the position of the dowels, so it may be for the best.
Not sure if it was just the dollars talking, but Doug really didn’t like idea of the PVC tubes as rebar receptacles. He pointed out that they would be a weak point in the connection between the footings and the rebar. They do not have the strength or the grip. I was more interested in the convenience because I don’t think I need strength or grip in that location. Perhaps we were thinking about different locations. I agree drilled rebar will be critical for the pillars under the concrete ribs. Not sure if we will use the PVC when we get to the main footings, but I have 250 of these things cut and ready to go.
The rain washed off the concrete “crème” and left an exposed aggregate look. I kind of like it and I think the shotcrete will stick to it well. Another “day” done.
I still haven’t seen the bill (or paid anything). In order to get a reasonable bid on this unusually complicated project, I had to get the bid based on “volume and materials”. I thought that was safer than “time and materials” because at least the volumes were calculated beforehand. Basically, I agreed on the cost per cubic yard for forming and pouring as well as the cost, per ton of rebar, for placing and tying the rebar. But I do not yet know what he will charge for the materials (such as the wood, rebar, and concrete) or the total cost of the pump truck, or how the over-orders of material will affect the bill. I am a tiny bit nervous about that.
Earth Sheltered homes are “non-standard”. In many ways, this is a good thing, but, unless you are out in some “wild-west” part of the country where there are no building inspectors, you will still need to meet standard codes. Many existing earth sheltered homes are built to code, so it is doable, but it does take some care to understand those codes and to understand their intent.
I think I am prepared, but I am just getting started, so I may be naive. I will be back to discuss lessons learned working with my building inspector. So far, things have gone a bit smoother than I expected.
Code “Alternative”
Also understand that the codes make allowances for new ideas or “alternatives” if the building inspector can be convinced that they will be sufficient. To find these exceptions, pull up a PDF of your codes (plumbing codes or mechanical, etc.) and search for the word “alternative”.
You will find sections like this that I found in the mechanical code…
105.2 Alternative materials, methods and equipment. The provisions of this code are not intended to prevent the installation of any material or to prevent any method of construction not specifically prescribed by this code, provided that any such alternative has been approved. An alternative material or method of construction shall be approved where the code official finds that the proposed design is satisfactory and complies with the intent of the provisions of this code, and that the material, method or work offered is, for the purpose intended, at least the equivalent of that prescribed in this code in quality, strength, effectiveness, fire resistance, durability and safety ~ Mechanical Building Code
This means that it is up to the inspector to carefully consider your proposed design and approve it if it complies with the intent of the building code, which is generally safety. They shouldn’t just refuse your permit or ask you to make changes because they haven’t seen it done that way before or because it is not specifically in their code books. However, it may be up to you to provide the proof that your design is a good one. In my particular case, my inspector didn’t feel like he was qualified to decide if my shotcrete structure was adequate or not, so he asked me to provide engineered drawings. You will find sections of the code (such as 304.4.3 of the Mechanical code) that allow for alternatives if they have been “specially engineered.”
Researching and/or meeting up with the local building inspector is a great idea before buying land to build your earth sheltered home on. I met with my inspector and showed him my rough drawings before I bought land in his township. He seemed open minded to the earth sheltering idea and told me that he saw his job as making sure my home was build safely and that my contractors didn’t cut corners. He clearly put himself “on my side”. He even told me about other earth sheltered homes that had been built in the area. Had I anticipated an uphill battle against a negative mindset, I would have moved on and looked for land elsewhere.
If your inspector will not let you use a good design that you can show is “safe”, then they are being “arbitrary“, which is a legal term that gives you the right to appeal. The appeals process doesn’t need to involve lawyers or lots of money or time, but make sure that you bring the evidence that what you are doing is safe…
And stay polite… You need show that you know what your are doing so you can remove the impasse and continue with your build, but you don’t want to poison your relationship with the inspector, and possibly everyone in his office. Often the threat of an appeal will be enough to convince your inspector to more carefully re-consider your supporting evidence.
Beyond Code
In many cases, you will find that “code” is well short of the kind of home you would like to bring your family into. Earth sheltered home owners should be interested in going beyond code in a number of different areas, including electrical and waterproofing. More on this later.
Building inspector…
The building inspector left us a message saying that the plans were approved (pending the zoning permit which should be completed on Monday). That was really much faster than I expected. When I was in his office on Wednesday, I saw lots of sticky notes in my plans. The only one I was able to read said something about making sure that my under slab ducts drained toward an accessible point (my mechanical room). That was my plan, it just wasn’t specified in the drawings. I expected lots of discussion with him about that or other issues before he approved the plans… But now I expect I will just get the plans back with lots of notes that I will need to comply with in order to pass inspections.
Of course, now we need to pay more than $2000 to get the actual permit. On the whole we have saved about 500$ in permit fees (as I mentioned last week). So we are ahead of our budget… for now. I expect we will start to get behind again later when we need a few extra inspections due to our unusual build. For instance, we will need at least one extra rough electrical and rough plumbing inspection so we can shotcrete the basement (another extra cost associated with the basement) before erecting the walls above it and doing some more rough plumbing and electrical.
The Stakeout
The last thing we need for the building permit is the zoning permit. The zoning inspector’s primary concern is that our property is setback 60 ft from the road. It is a little bit silly because the plans clearly show the house is more than 90 ft from the road and the stakes we put in tonight were temporary (not actually used to build) because we still need to level off the property… But anyway, it was part of the process, so we did it and it was pretty interesting.
The home is based on a circle and uses lots of angles, so I will definitely want to use a proper laser transit for laying out the footings. But at this point, it didn’t need to be very precise. Instead, I used a 2 ft paver and diamond cut the important angles in based on a paper print out (it cracked when I dropped it into position). We knew the distance from two stakes to the center of the house, so we used two ropes measured to the right distance and placed the paver, oriented to North, where the ropes overlapped. Once positioned, the large 90lb (41kg) paver will stay put. Then we measured out from the center and I sprayed my arcs with surveyors spray paint. We put stakes at key corners based on the length of the measuring tape and the angle on the center stone. My younger boy didn’t get excited about it until I sprayed the “S” for South next to one of the key points… Then he got the concept.
The final result was that we could “walk through” the rooms and get a sense of the size and flow in 1:1 scale. On that big hill with the big evening sky, the rooms felt small. We had laid out individual rooms before, but this was the first time we had really laid out the whole house and been able to walk through it. Later, standing on the far west corner of the garage and looking across the field to the far east corner of the bedroom, it looked bigger. My wife was starting to doubt that beds would fit in the rooms, but I guess we need to trust the numbers and doubt our perceptions over rough terrain (or maybe it was my rough survey skills).
I didn’t like the final position of the house. I really wanted the back window of the playroom in a certain location where the view is good and the topology of the site dips for the basement egress windows located below. In order to get that without moving a lot of earth, I think we will need to move the house north and east by ~15 ft. Next time we site the house, I may even start with the location of that window and work backward to the center of the house and then out from there.
My Email
When I setup this website, I also got an email address. Actually, it was the address that helped me pick the final website name. I liked the idea of telling contractors (or whoever) that my email address was “Simon” @ “home in the earth” dot com.
Unfortunately, things have been slow to get started and I did not end up using that email with any contractors. Since I didn’t expect any email, I haven’t checked that account since late 2012.
Well, I checked it last night and there were lots of nice comments and questions there. If you wrote to me over the last year, sorry I didn’t get back to you. I will try to get through those emails over the next few days and I will try to check it more regularly from then on.
Actually I have not told many friends about this site (Other than my wife, I don’t think anyone I know from real life has subscribed (top right column) yet. If you subscribe, you will get an email each time I post.
You can also leave comments on each page. If you just come in to the home page, you may not see the comment window. You need to click on the header for a particular post and then you will see the comment section at the bottom. If you leave an email in a comment, it will not shown on the site, but I can use it to reply.
