In this episode, the gunite crew from S.A.M. Gunite Pools comes back to shoot our south wall. They had just finished the roof on the Friday before, so the equipment and materials were already in place. The form work was lath covered rigid XPS insulation over steel stud framework. Easy-peasy… Easy to watch anyway.
The Video
The Forms
We started with a steel stud framework and attached 2 inches of XPS rigid insulation (Pink Board) to that. The window bucks were treated wood, cut to match the curve of the wall. We also had some 4 and 6 inch tube steel in the wall to take loads from the earth covered awing that we will add in a later step. Then we covered the XPS with lath to hold the shotcrete and we were ready to go. You can find more details and pics on the formwork here…
This is a pretty easy and robust way to form a wall, and includes built-in continuous insulation already in place from day one. The steel studs also leave a 4 inch deep cavity that I expanded out with some furring strips on the inside so I could fit 5 inches of additional insulation.
The Bat’Lath was used a lot in this job to trim down the walls to the correct thickness before troweling. This did create a fair amount of waste, but I am sure it was worth it compared to trying to push around that much concrete.
The Gallery
A picture is worth a thousand words, but these pics also have captions, so bonus words!
This one is the long awaited shooting of the gunite roof. As per usual, we’ll start with the time lapse video and end with a gallery. If I am up for it, I’ll post some lessons learned in between.
The video
Lessons Learned
Gunite vs Shotcrete: This topic was already covered, but I’ll link to it here. I’ll also add that it is all in the mix. If your gunite is just a basic sand and portland mix, it isn’t going to be as strong as a shotcrete mix with some fancy additives, heavier aggregate, etc.
Lath and Screen vs Hardboard: For the shotcrete, the lath and screen worked well. None of the shotcrete passed thru the screen because it uses a pea stone aggregate. However, the gunite used sand as the aggrigate and did pass thru the screen. The hardboard was great in some ways, but the weather really beat it up and gave it a rippled surface.
Shooting and finishing: Both are important. My shotcrete crew could have done just as good a job as the gunite crew, but they didn’t. For shooting, you want someone who understands what you need to get done and is just putting up what you need. If they are paid by the cubic yard, they may put up more than you need, etc. You definitly want enough finishing people to finish the surfaces adequately. If your crew is strong on shooting, but doesn’t have enough man power to finish, you will be sad.
Cleanup… If the crew treats cleanup as an afterthought, you will be sad. There will be mess. Make sure the crew has enough man power to deal with it. Beyond that, you probably need to keep your eyes open for things the busy crew may miss. For instance, I wish I had better covered some of the near by boulders to prevent them from getting gunite on them and I really wished I had better cleaned off the polished concrete ribs before the gunite set. That mistake cost me many many hours.
Do it yourself? My rule of thumb is that if a job takes tens of thousands of dollars worth of specialized equipment, you probably shouldn’t be doing it yourself. Add the experience, skill and stamina required and I would double down that you probably shouldn’t be doing your own gunite or shotcrete. That said, I do know of some who have and kudos to them.
In this segment, we formed the south wall for gunite. The video, details and pictures can be found below.
The Video
Details
Order of the layers
We had formed previous shotcrete walls with steel studs and lath and steel studs with XPS insulation. We liked the idea of combining the insulation in the form because it saved us the step of attaching it, however, the steel studs caused “void shadows” in the shotcrete and water could travel thru those voids, etc.
For this south wall, we decided to use the steel studs to form the XPS, but we would put the shotcrete outside the insulation, on the opposite side from the steel studs. We could then use just a single layer of XPS and then backfill between the Studs later to increase our R value.
If this were a load bearing wall that needed to incorporate rebar in the shotcrete, we may have come up with a different idea.
Curved Bucks
To make the curved bucks, I used CAD software to figure out the size and angles of the little wood blocks, making sure that the longest side was something easily measurable on a straight edge. In this case, I used a 5 inch length (4.999 is close enough to 5) and an angle. I setup the miter saw with a stop block so I wouldn’t have to measure each one. Then I would just need to flip the wood board for each cut so the blocks came out with the right trapezoid shape to assemble into the circle.
Gallery
A picture is often the best way to tell a story, so here are a bunch of them.
Here David is a little annoyed because he is digging out the footings while Michael (on the right side) is having fun welding in the rebar for the last vault.
Yes, I know a screen capture is a better way to get these sorts of images, but my work computer has all sorts of “security” features that make it easier if I just take a quick photo of my screen. In this case, it was just to have some reference in my pocket while I was out there.
The elevation view of the front of the house…
Since we would soon need to put in the door buck for the front door, we really had to nail down the choice of which size door we planned on installing. We decided to go with this cheap and standard front door instead of the larger entry with sidelites that we had originally planned.
I had bought a new compound miter saw, but I bought a cheap “performax” one from Menards. It was impossible to align. I couldn’t even get the two sides of the fence to align with eachother. I ended up taking it back and getting a Dewalt, which I was very happy with.
I welded on these little brackets to attach the steel studs to the steel Ibeams
I had told the boys not to touch the bucks if they could help it, so Michael usually ran thru jumping like this.
We took a mini vacation with friends during this part of the build…
For the blocks we were cutting, I would often get a screen shot like this to remind myself of the angles and dimensions.
In this case, I had made sure that the longest dimension was a nice and easy 5 inches.
Putting that ring together…
We used glue and then screwed the blocks together
I liked the look of the end grain…
David getting some extra screws into the circle window buck.
I thought this pic of the boys helping to lift the window buck into place was pretty cute…
Windows bucks in, but still lots of work to go
Setting up the last curved wood ledge…
Brody doing some final adjustments as he attached the steel studs to the underside of the curved wood ledge.
Michael likes doing this thumbs up pose for the timelapse when he walks by
The XPS formwork is pretty much done here
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There is always maintenance to do. In this case, the new Kubota I bought needed a hydraulic line replaced. I took this pic so I could remember what fittings I would need.
Part of life includes stopping to sharpen your blades. That lawn mower had a rough life on that construction site. The three blades on the left are the ones I took off it and the new blade is on the right… Ouch, I have never seen such wrecked blades, so I took a pic and then had a conversation with the boys about riding the mower over rocks.