In this segment, we mark and place the front columns and the curved I-beams that form the framework for the entry and green house sections. Most of the time-lapse footage was lost some how, but I did have some pics…
The video
Surplus Steel
I bought the columns from the surplus steel place in my area. The cost was low enough that I didn’t mind a few imperfections. No regrets and I will probably do it again. I did put tape over the holes to keep wasps from moving in.
Trouble with the Forks
When I bought the skid steer, the guy who sold it to me said he also had a beat up set of old forks that I could have for 200$. New forks cost 3 or 4 times as much, so I told him to send those with the skid steer even though I hadn’t actually seen them. At first, I just noticed that the back board was a bit damaged. After using them, I also noticed that the two forks were actually different thickness (miss-matched set) and had bent slightly differently and I was having trouble holding things level.
We didn’t worry about the back board, but my father and I fixed the “uneven” issue with some torches (and lots of patience) to heat up one of the forks so we could bend it to match the other.
But all that time, I was using the forks to lift heavy things, so I didn’t notice the 3rd issue… When you apply loads the other way (pushing down on the forks), the locking mechanism is supposed to hold them in place. However, the top ledge that holds the locking mechanism in place had been slightly stretched upward and increased the tolerance by maybe 1/4th of an inch, and that was enough for the mechanism to actually detach when the load was pushed the other way.
While setting the second I-beam, The beam got hooked on the bent back shield and wouldn’t let me lower the forks. Since this flipped the load direction, it also shifted the locking mechanism down 1/4th inch relative to the forks and they detached from that top edge.
With the load direction reversed, the forks detached from the skidsteer
Those Forks are a few hundred pounds of heavy steel, so rather than just let them fall off and possibly damage something on the way down, we strapped them to the quick attach mechanism on the skid steer so we could still lower them carefully.
The final fix was to weld 2 pieces of angle iron across the top of the quick attach mechanism to remove the gap so it won’t be unlocked by a reverse load.
Final view. There will be windows under most of those Ibeams and a Front door under the left most one. Earth covered in grass, etc. will be above.
I needed to mount an electrical panel in the mechanical room in the basement. But first, I needed to stucco those walls. The walls were really too rough to use metal tools (the stucco just falls off between the lumps and tool) and packing it by hand was too slow. After trying both, we decided to spend the money to buy a Mortar Sprayer from Tool Crete.
Here is the video
Enough Air?
These mortar sprayers use air pressure to blast wet concrete/stucco/mortar from the bottom of the hopper on to the wall, so obviously having enough air is critical. For maximum flow, I would need a decent air compressor and high flow fittings and hoses, but without spending too much money.
My little pancake compressor, with its quarter inch fittings, definitely wasn’t going to be sufficient. Larger compressors can get expensive and the mortar sprayer was expensive enough on its own. Fortunately, my father let me have his old compressor. He must have had that thing for about 30 years and I remember hating it as a child… Not just because it was annoyingly loud, but because he would sometimes ask me to turn it on or off and the switch was strangely placed on the inside and I would have to reach blindly under the bench over the electrical connections, between the motor and compressor and way too close to the spinning belt that connected them… Regardless of my past (totally reasonable) fears, I was quite happy to get it now.
Next, I would need to find the right fittings. Larger is better, so I was looking for 1/2 inch fittings. These are not available at any hardware stores near me, so I was checking out places like Grainger industrial supply and they were pricey. Fortunately, I didn’t get around to buying anything before I realized that the compressor outlet was only 3/8ths of an inch. There is no sense in having larger connections downstream of a smaller one, so the compressor outlet diameter limited my max fitting size to 3/8ths inch. I found that Home Depot had plenty in stock and they were much more affordable than the 1/2 inch ones. My fathers old hoses were also 3/8ths, but with 1/4 inch fittings, so, I just swapped out all the fittings.
The last hurdle was the 220 volts required. My generator has a 220 plug, but it couldn’t keep up with the demand I expected from the compressor. This meant I needed to wire in a 220 plug and make up a long enough extension chord. At least that was pretty straight forward. I also had to swap out the plug on the compressor to match. While rewiring the generator, I discovered that the original wiring didn’t have a properly connected ground, somewhat further justifying my childhood fears.
Once that was all done, I bought the stucco and waited for a rainy day. No sense wasting a good sunny day down in the basement.
Mortar Sprayer Tips
I found the mortar sprayer pretty easy to use, and you would probably figure these things out yourself if you picked one up, but I will write them down anyway.
1) It is clearly designed to scoop from a wheelbarrow, so you might as well just mix the stucco right in the wheelbarrow. I do have a paddle mixer (attaches to my drill), and a barrel mixer, but it just seemed easier to do it directly with a hoe in a wheelbarrow. Proper “mixing hoes” have two big holes in the blade to help reduce drag and improve the mixing, but the light weight stucco mixed easily with a standard garden hoe.
2) Mix consistency is important. If the mix is too thick it doesn’t slide down the hopper to where the air nozzles are. I found I could sometimes shake it down, but that was tiring. On the other extreme, if the mix is too thin, it slides down the hopper and some of it starts to drain out the holes before you can shoot it on the wall. With a little trial and error, we worked out a water ratio and mixing process that worked pretty well for our conditions.
3) Ladder work is sometimes required. The hopper empties quickly and climbing up and down the ladder with the mortar sprayer and hose is a bit tiring. We found it worked best to stay up on the ladder and pass the sprayer down to someone who could scoop it and pass it back up.
Shooting the Scratch Coat onto the wall
4) The scoop action is easy if the mortar is all piled in the right place in the wheelbarrow, but near the end of each load, we found it saved time if the second man used a trowel to help push the mortar from the corners into the “scoop zone” while the sprayer was shooting onto the wall.
5) The sprayer does make a bit of a mess and things are much easier to clean up if you can put down some plastic, etc. In the video, you can see I even covered the water pressure tank in a garbage bag.
6) After getting the mortar up and smoothing it off (with a tool or by hand), you should let it set for several hours (depending on environmental factors) and then come back with a grout sponge when it feels pretty stiff. These are tougher than a regular sponge and you can find these in the tile section of the hardware store. I used a bucket of water to keep in wet and wiped down the walls to smooth them significantly. The difference between the sponge smoothed walls and the walls I didn’t smooth is pretty dramatic. I am just glad that I will be putting a lot of duct work, etc. in front of the rougher walls.
Gallery
A gallery of pics.
Shooting the Scratch Coat onto the wall
Here, you can see the horizontal lines of the scratch coat… And a hint of how rough the underlying shotcrete was.
Left half is final coat stucco, right half is scratch coat. The tubes are 8″ diameter earth tubes.
Final finish coat. Just plain white stucco.
After the stucco set, we mounted this plywood with tapcon screws as a base for the electrical panel.
We needed to run 200 amps of electricity from the meter on the back corner of the garage to the mechanical room in the middle of the house. This part of the process was necessary and lessons were learned, but it was a smallish stand alone project, so here is the shortest video segment yet…
Cable run:
Code requires that 200 amp service needs at least 2/0 copper cable or 4/0 aluminum. I went with the copper, even though it is a little more expensive, because it is much thinner and easier to work with. The rooms are not that far apart, but since I had to start in the back corner of the garage and travel a long path up and along walls, I ended up ordering enough for a 125ft service run.
The run requires three of the heavy 2/0 cables (220 volt service) and one smaller 4 gauge ground wire, so the total weight on the spool was about 200 lbs. We attached conduit to the steel Quonset hut with 3/8ths inch bolts that could support the weight (and the tugging). Actually, these were bolts left over from assembling the Quonset hut. On the back wall, we attached to the Fox blocks with wood screws every 8 inches.
The cables have a slightly slippery coating that makes pulling easier, but I still didn’t think my wire puller could handle the load. Instead, we used the wire puller to pull a rope thru the conduit, and then we used the rope to pull the heavy two-ought cables.
Code limits the maximum number of bends because it just gets too hard to pull the wire if there are too many. My run was below the maximum, but I still didn’t want to try pulling the whole thing at once. Instead, we put up the first section with just a single 90 degree bend and pulled the wires just thru that. Then we added sections, threading them over the cables and working back toward the breakers.
The quick time-lapse makes it look easy, but it really didn’t feel like it at the time and I was very glad to have hunters help. Don’t try this sort of thing on your own. At one point you can see us both trying to support the weight of the cable while we add screws for the brackets in that back corner. Lots of sweat.
I just liked this pic that the timelapse camera took of the arches while we were organizing the wires
My parents came out that weekend to help with setting up steel (that’s another video), but also jumped in to help me wrangle the wires into conduit and fit those in place between the garage and the mechanical room. The trickiest part here was that both ends of the assembly were fixed and we had to get the conduit measured just right and then, with the wire already in side, fit between the two ends. Fortunately, it was just flexible enough.
This last section of conduit is “outside” now, but eventually the kitchen floor will be poured over it.
Introduction:
Welcome Hunter M. to the video.
Hunter is an 18 year old college student (just finished his 2nd year of film school) with a side interest in building. His personal interest is in a tiny house project, and, hopefully, he will build his own some day.
Hunter is a great worker, with a very optimistic attitude and a great sense of humor. He is also great at paying attention, he learns fast and he anticipates what I will need next. He has been a great help so far this summer and I am sure he will do well in life. I would be happy to recommend him to anyone, just not on Saturdays when I need his help.
Tips:
1) Be careful about the direction of your conduit. I put the first section in backward and my first attempt to pull the first cable failed because the cable was hitting on the inside end of the pipe in the connection. Fortunately, I was at least consistent and could go around and pull the cable from the other direction.
Pull the cable in this direction, and never mix directions with the conduit.
This sort of rebar bender can help you move service entrance wire
2) Similar to the service entrance, I found that using my rebar bender helped me feed the wire thru that hole between the inside and outside. It is tough to describe without catching it on video, but you can make the thick/stiff cables move like an inch worm around the corner and through the hole.
3) Code requires all the cables for a run to go thru the same conduit. This is to keep all the cables the same length so that the sin curves for the AC current stay in sync between the black and red cables… If anyone wants to know more, I could come back and put in an illustration to explain that here. I did know that and put all the cables through the one conduit. The second conduit is so that I can later come back and run other things (Ethernet?) from the garage to the mechanical room. When building a concrete, underground house, a second wire chase is a good idea.
For some strange reason, I have always wanted to build a block wall. So of course, I had to work at least a bit of that into the plans. I chose to build the bathroom out of block because it was all internal walls and I liked the idea that it may slightly brace the quonset hut before we added concrete over it. We also had this idea that the garage would be finished first and it would be great to have a bathroom in there so we could use it during the rest of the build…
Also, I have often joked (only half kidding) that I would like the bathroom to be waterproof so we could clean it with a power washer. And that would require no drywall…
First, the Video…
Glass Bottle Wall
I have also wanted to make a glass bottle wall for a long time, but with a low R value, they are not practical as an exterior wall in Michigan. Instead, I plan to finish the gap between this bathroom wall and the Quonset ceiling with glass bottles… This way, it will be an internal wall and will let light in from the garage skylights while still finishing off the bathroom wall to the ceiling to provide privacy. Video to come later… much later. Maybe after we move in.
Pro-tips
1) Buy half blocks, etc. When you go to price the blocks, you will find that the full 8″x8″x16″ blocks are pretty cheap. In my case, they were 86 cents each. But then if you look at half blocks, you will find that they cost almost twice as much for half as much block. At first, I said, “No way, those are for suckers, I’ll just split the full blocks.” And while it is true that some of the full blocks come designed to be split, it was not easy and I wrecked half the blocks that I tried. Eventually, I realized that those half blocks were expensive because they were worth it! I also bought 4x8x8 blocks and cut those in half for some quarter blocks.
2) Pay for delivery. Blocks are heavy and it took hundreds to make even my small bathroom. You could make a bunch of trips with a pick up truck (be careful not to overload it), but for the money you would pay in gas, you could just have them delivered all at once and without risking wear and tear on your vehicle. Delivery also saves you time, and time is money.
3) Cut the blocks for electrical as you go. I guess we were just so excited to be building that we forgot to do that. When I came back later, it looked pretty easy in the video, but… If cutting the block had cracked it, how would I have replaced it? It was also pretty challenging to get the ENT boxes to fit in the holes with the conduit attached to the tops, and then I had to run the conduit and wires all the way up to the top of the wall and back down again, which wasted a few extra dollars. Plus, you just look silly for forgetting.
4) Make sure your concrete dye is a nice liquid or powder so you can mix it accurately. Mine was a lumpy semi-solid mass that had been sitting on the shelf at Home Depot well past its expiry date and this made it very difficult to get a uniform color. I found that I could blend the color by wet sponging the wall later, but it still doesn’t look quite right.
Gallery
Here are some pics from along the way…
This was the plan for the bathroom. The shower plumbing was supposed to come up in the wall, inside the blocks, but it was placed about 6 inches off… We discussed how to adjust the bathroom to fit and ended up moving the ind wall back another 8 inches, so things ended up a little bigger than this.
Get your blocks delivered. They are heavy and delivery is cheaper than all the trips it would take to carry these safely in my pickup truck.
Sherri waiting patiently for me to setup the camera
Blocks at the end of the second evening, before the bond beam went up.
Before the bond beam
View of the door buck and scaffold inside.
Laughing about something… Sherri has water in her bottle with a pin hole in the top that she was using to help smooth out the walls.
Michael helping out on the inside while Sherri and I finish up the outside.
Half done the inside, and I am leaning back to adjust the camera.
Sherri finishing up surface bonding the last wall
A view from the inside…
I had accidentally touched up some of the outside with lighter cement from the inside (see above the door), oops. I decided to try and smooth it out.
The surface after sponging to smooth out the color and texture.
I installed the toilet flange with a hammer drill and some tapcon screws. Easy.
Brand new toilet… Oh the horrors it will see.
After the walls and door were in, we could add a toilet…
These concrete ribs were designed to give me more of an open space feeling without needing to build a wide and tall vault. For more about the design of the ribs or how I made the forms, you can read this earlier post.
This was really an epic part of the earth sheltered home build project, spanning (no pun intended) much more time than I would have liked. The costs for the forms and concrete were pretty minimal, the majority of the cost was actually in hiring the crane to move them around and set them up.
Side note: since I am so far behind… I will probably go and improve the section on the timeline next. Thanks to those of you who wrote to inquire if I died. Nope, just really busy and didn’t have time to put a video together. Speaking of which…
The Video
Lessons learned
The Pump truck did not make things easier. Pump trucks are expensive and I needed it to come out for the floors anyway, so the first few rib pours needed to be coordinated with other jobs. This complicated the planning and made the pour days harder. It also slowed down the progress on the ribs by delaying the pours. And after all that extra planning and delay and expense, it was just plain harder to fill the ribs from the pipe than from the chute because it was really difficult to move it around. I guess my advice here would be to talk to the concrete guys and ask them how they would recommend you handle it. It was probably obvious to everyone except me.
Originally, I used silicone caulk to seal the bottom edges of the forms against the floor. However, this was a pain to clean up later. For the 2nd set, we used play-dough that my wife got cheap on clearance somewhere. The play-dough came up easily enough at the end, but it was such a pain to roll out and put into place that we ended up going back to the silicone for the later ribs.
The first set of ribs took about 4 hours per side to polish. I would start with a diamond cup wheel and then follow up with successive polishing pads at 50, 100, and 200 grit. I also used a special wheel to put a 3/4 inch round on the edges. For the second half of the ribs, I got a larger, more aggressive diamond cup wheel. It worked so well for the first step, that I quickly did all the other ribs. It was only when I got to the 50 grit pads that I noticed the diamond cup wheel had made deeper scratches than the previous one and it was much more difficult to remove them. I even went back to try the less aggressive cup wheel once I realize that the 50 grit was not working well. Overall, this mistake cost me several extra hours for each rib.
The moving dollies were supposed to be able to handle 1000lbs each, but that was clearly an exaggeration. I used more than 10 for each 5000 lb rib and still we had crunching sounds as their ball bearings exploded out all over the floor. The tires on some of them shredded completely. Eventually, I learned that most of the damage happened as each wheel rotated into the correct position to roll forward. By the time I got to the 3rd set, I had learned to point the wheels all in the right direction before lowering the rib on to them. This increased the survival rate considerably. I also salvaged partially damaged dollies by consolidating the less damaged castor wheels on to other dollies.
The rubber form liner molds were an interesting part of the build for me and I like the final look on the ribs, but again, not the best idea. More details below.
Liquid Rubber Form Liners
Originally, I planned to use the Styrofoam ceiling tiles directly, but after handling them a bit, I was worried that they were too fragile and wouldn’t last thru multiple uses. I also thought it would be a bit tricky to place them in the form so they would be centered because they were a bit narrower than ideal. However, if I used the ceiling tiles to form durable rubber form liners, I could get longer pieces that would be reusable and would be the inverse of the tiles. I could carefully center them on a board of the right width so the full depth forms could be easily placed, etc. I did some math to find the volume that I would need and found that I could get the PolyTek 75-75 ingredients for about 175$. That seemed reasonable enough to me at the time. The box of foam tiles was about $40. However, I soon discovered that mixing carefully was critical. My first few attempts were mostly good, but 95% isn’t good enough to cast concrete with. I only ended up with enough decent panels to do a small section of the first few ribs.
For the living room ribs, I decided to make the panels a little thicker (these were the ones I showed in the video). I would need to order more liquid rubber. This time, it was more like 225$, so I was in for roughly $400 worth of liquid rubber. That would have been enough to buy new Styrofoam tiles each time, so not the smartest move in hind sight.
I didn’t quite use up all my liquid rubber ingredients on the panels because I decided to try the Styrofoam ceiling tiles directly on each alternate rib. This way the pattern inverts, positive/negative for each rib.
Cost and timing
See the other page about costs for the forms, but they were just a few hundred dollars and were reused for all the ribs. So divided by 11 ribs, that is just about 30$ each.
The rebar was fairly affordable also. We used about 60$ worth of #5 and about 50$ worth of stirrups, so about 110$ per rib. There were also some steel plates that I built into the ribs and I think I paid about 10$ each for those from the scrap yard. Tie wire and welding costs are hard to guesstimate, but lets say it is less than 5$ per rib.
The concrete was about 1.3 yards per rib, which would be less than $185, even after some waste (Concrete costs about $100 per yard, delivered, but there are a couple other charges).
The molds and ceiling tiles were about 450$ total, so about 40$ each.
Then I bought about 20 of those little moving dollies and some other miscellaneous stuff for about 220$ total, so 20$/rib to move them out of the garage.
The grinder and all the pads were under 220$, but I still have the grinder many of the pads, so I am just going to leave that stuff out.
So lets say the total was $400 per rib. Not bad considering the quote to have it done by someone else was about $8,000 each.
Unfortunately, the crane and welding the ribs to the ring just about doubled that cost. The guys from RTC were great to work with and I appreciated their help, but I had not budgeted enough in that area.
Timing varied as I got better at each task, but here is the rough break down in man hours.
Form prep took about 2 hours per rib and includes cleaning the form segments, fixing any damage, re-assembling the form and attaching it to the floor, and then caulking the bottom edge.
Rebar was next and was taking about 8 hours on average, including getting all the rebar in, tying and welding.
After the rebar was in, I needed to call for an inspection, which didn’t take much time, but did delay the next step.
Next was the pour. It actually took less than half an hour to pour each pair of ribs, but then we would spend at least an hour or so troweling and finishing it off. Lets be generous and say 2 hours per rib. Then there was some delay (several days to a week) as we let the concrete cure.
Then we would spend about 6 hours (3 hours each) unpacking and moving the ribs out of the way. This included a lot of clean up.
And then the cycle could repeat.
After the ribs were out of the garage, I could polish them. The first half took about 4 hours per side to polish, so 8 hours per rib. But, thanks to an overly aggressive cup wheel and adverse weather conditions (hose freezing, etc), the second set took about twice that long. Lets put in an average of 12 hours per rib.
The flip and setup time wasn’t too bad, but lets write it down as an hour each there.
This brings the total hours per rib to about 28. I had 11 ribs to make, so about 308 hours total. If I had done those in 40 hour work weeks, it would have been nearly 8 weeks of constant work (yes, some of those hours or days were worked by other people like Sherri, Bonnie, Aaron, Dan, John and Mark). However, I already had a full time job, and also had other things to work on at the house, so I ended up spreading this part of the build over a whole year. The video on this article covers from July 2015 thru April 2016.
Needless to say, I am glad the ribs are all done.
Gallery
After a long and difficult project, looking over the pics feels pretty good.
To illustrate how you get tangential arcs, important here because the load paths are smooth and in compression
3D model showing the ribs and curved steel I beams.
Model showing the kitchen, I included it here so you could see where the kitchen door slides into the rib.
Euclidean geometry can be built with nothing but a string and nails…
At the corners, it is best to overlap the rebar like this so that neither side can be pulled thru
Ryan and Carter helping with the hose
Moving those 5000lb ribs tended to wreck a portion of the wheels on each cart. Rather than toss out the whole carts, I would consolidate the good wheels together so some of the carts could be used again.
Polishing
First rib lifted up… I tiled the image so the rib would look upright
At one end, the rebar is welded to a steel plate and this still plate gets welded to the steel compression ring when we set it up.
On cold days like this, I placed a heater in the middle and also covered with rigid insulation before leaving for the night.
More finishing
Love this pic of Michael playing on Ribs 7 and 8 while we are finishing up prep for 9 and 10.
More rebar…
Work often runs me past sunset, especially in the winter.
Ribs 7 and 8, ready to pour.
We used a wet grinder to polish the concrete. It had various different cups and polishing pads.
Rebar was fun, the first time, but got old fast. In these joint areas, it got a little messy
#5 rebar along the spine with #3 rebar stirrups to tie it all together.
Some times I welded in extra bars just to keep everything oriented and spaced correctly.
Ribs, forms removed and ready to lift.
The boys playing with balancing against concrete paving stones we made
Polishing the ribs as a snow storm rolled in
Another snowy day… It was above freezing, so I still polished, I just had to get the ice out of the hose first.
Sherri and I were pretty happy after curving the last of the #5 rebar… Just a few more hours of rebar tying left on the last rib.
Sherri’s father (Mark) came out to help pour the last rib.
By this 11th rib, Sherri and I pretty much know what we are doing.
Sherri pulling down the last bits of concrete from the chute
Finishing up the last rib and knowing I wouldn’t need to reset it felt pretty good.
This bottom end of the rib was broken off when the strap slipped and it was dropped. You can see the yellow target that I pained to help guide the crane in. There was also a #5 rebar peg grouted in the middle of the square.
The crane company said I should label this pic as “Mike, the RTC oompa loompa”. All good guys to work with.
We used these bolts to attach the steel brackets to the ribs
The steel attached to the concrete
The view from below after the ribs were setup. This is our “open concept” living room…
