In this segment, we formed the south wall for gunite. The video, details and pictures can be found below.
The Video
Details
Order of the layers
We had formed previous shotcrete walls with steel studs and lath and steel studs with XPS insulation. We liked the idea of combining the insulation in the form because it saved us the step of attaching it, however, the steel studs caused “void shadows” in the shotcrete and water could travel thru those voids, etc.
For this south wall, we decided to use the steel studs to form the XPS, but we would put the shotcrete outside the insulation, on the opposite side from the steel studs. We could then use just a single layer of XPS and then backfill between the Studs later to increase our R value.
If this were a load bearing wall that needed to incorporate rebar in the shotcrete, we may have come up with a different idea.
Curved Bucks
To make the curved bucks, I used CAD software to figure out the size and angles of the little wood blocks, making sure that the longest side was something easily measurable on a straight edge. In this case, I used a 5 inch length (4.999 is close enough to 5) and an angle. I setup the miter saw with a stop block so I wouldn’t have to measure each one. Then I would just need to flip the wood board for each cut so the blocks came out with the right trapezoid shape to assemble into the circle.
Gallery
A picture is often the best way to tell a story, so here are a bunch of them.
Here David is a little annoyed because he is digging out the footings while Michael (on the right side) is having fun welding in the rebar for the last vault.
Yes, I know a screen capture is a better way to get these sorts of images, but my work computer has all sorts of “security” features that make it easier if I just take a quick photo of my screen. In this case, it was just to have some reference in my pocket while I was out there.
The elevation view of the front of the house…
Since we would soon need to put in the door buck for the front door, we really had to nail down the choice of which size door we planned on installing. We decided to go with this cheap and standard front door instead of the larger entry with sidelites that we had originally planned.
I had bought a new compound miter saw, but I bought a cheap “performax” one from Menards. It was impossible to align. I couldn’t even get the two sides of the fence to align with eachother. I ended up taking it back and getting a Dewalt, which I was very happy with.
I welded on these little brackets to attach the steel studs to the steel Ibeams
I had told the boys not to touch the bucks if they could help it, so Michael usually ran thru jumping like this.
We took a mini vacation with friends during this part of the build…
For the blocks we were cutting, I would often get a screen shot like this to remind myself of the angles and dimensions.
In this case, I had made sure that the longest dimension was a nice and easy 5 inches.
Putting that ring together…
We used glue and then screwed the blocks together
I liked the look of the end grain…
David getting some extra screws into the circle window buck.
I thought this pic of the boys helping to lift the window buck into place was pretty cute…
Windows bucks in, but still lots of work to go
Setting up the last curved wood ledge…
Brody doing some final adjustments as he attached the steel studs to the underside of the curved wood ledge.
Michael likes doing this thumbs up pose for the timelapse when he walks by
The XPS formwork is pretty much done here
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There is always maintenance to do. In this case, the new Kubota I bought needed a hydraulic line replaced. I took this pic so I could remember what fittings I would need.
Part of life includes stopping to sharpen your blades. That lawn mower had a rough life on that construction site. The three blades on the left are the ones I took off it and the new blade is on the right… Ouch, I have never seen such wrecked blades, so I took a pic and then had a conversation with the boys about riding the mower over rocks.
This post is all about erecting the steel arches and rebar for the radial roof vaults. This process took us a few weeks to get done and really looked great. I’ll put details and a lot of pictures down below, but first, the time lapse videos…
The Video(s)
Yes, I had to break this one into two videos.
Here is the first 6 vaults going in…
And here are the remaining 4 and a final walk thru.
The Gallery
A picture is worth a thousand words, so lets talk about things in the context of a gallery…
We passed the inspection without any trouble.
Another exterior view
After chisteling out the concrete for the hole, I also cut that piece of rebar and then cleaned it up nicely.
I had forgotten to leave a whole for an 8 inch duct to get thru this concrete wall. So I had to drill one out.
The kitchen vault before starting on the dining room.
This is the fresh stucco on the outside of my office window.
While I worked on Steel, Sherri worked on Stucco…
We welded each steel arch to rebar pegs (#5) drilled into the concrete ribs.
Pic of the first 3 vaults in
A sunset view from the bedroom roof
View from the bedrooms
This room as 3 vaults and covers 90 degrees of the circle (the fish eye lens flattens it out). Eventually, we will have our TV in here, etc.
This room was easy to work in because of the nice floor.
David in the playroom
I needed all the vaults to be the same height, so I used a laser to set the height of the scaffold when it was out in the uneven dirt. Then we set the steel arches a fixed distance above the scaffold deck using a car jack to make the final adjustments.
Here I am just trying out one of the steel arches to see how it “fits” and how it looks
In this shot you can see rebar arches lined up and ready to go while Sherri continues to work on stucco.
While I was focused on the steel arches, Sherri looked after stucco work.
Michael helping me work on one of the vaults.
The kids treated the place like a jungle gym
While working on the living room vaults, I looked down and noticed that the steel columns had filled with rain water. So I drilled holes to let it all out.
It sprayed for quite a while.
Close up on the bedroom dormer stucco
It was nice having a skid steer to move heavy things around.
In this case, we got a delivery of 2 tons of rebar and i could just move it to where I wanted it.
I bought a much smaller tractor to replace the skid steer and it couldn’t even lift one of these bundles.
Working under the vaults felt a little surreal at times
A closer view
IN this view, you can see my form material experiment
We knew that we would eventually need to attach formwork below the rebar, but I wasn’t sure how well my options would hold up to the environment…
I ended up using just the un-urethaned brown board, more on that in an upcoming video.
We celebrated the 4th from the roof with some friends…
We bought a Kubota to replace the skidsteer. It has only 1/3rd of the power, but it won’t tear up the ground.
Here Sherri is putting the rebar chairs up in the guest room ceiling.
The top of the guest vault. This one already has the lath, etc. and is ready to shoot.
Not sure why I don’t have any video footage of the guest room being done. Maybe it will turn up later or maybe it is lost forever.
Shot from the kitchen looking toward the dining room and living room
In the kitchen taking a pick of the dining room. The kitchen island will go under that concrete rib
In the dining room looking toward the living room
Standing in the living room looking toward the kitchen…
Backing up with the camera
Just another shot
The living room, dining room and kitchen are all open concept
In the previous post, we added the first layer of dirt over the home. In this next step, we add the “umbrella” layer to keep the first layer of dirt dry and warm. The umbrella is made of layers of rigid insulation and billboard vinyls and topped with a pond liner and carpet. Of course, I’ll try to give you some details into the practical construction of this umbrella, but first, the timelapse video.
The Video
Not so easy
When I read John Hait’s book oh PAHS (Passive Anual Heat Storage) he talks about coming up with the umbrella idea because it made it easier to cover the dome in insulation. So I guess I thought it would be the easy part and didn’t really put as much pre-thought into the install as I have for other aspects of this home. However, I was very wrong. It was not easy and don’t let the video make you think it was.
The first challenge was getting the pieces to stay where you put them. This was hard enough on the flat spots and only got more and more challenging for the steeper slopes. I tried a number of things like using wood stakes (I used my table saw to cut a 2×4 into wood weges that were 1/4 inch thick and 6 inches long and pushed them into the sheet to give it traction). The stakes helped with the first layer, but I couldn’t use them on the second. Tape helped a little, but was often foiled by the tiniest amount of sand or moisture. I even tried sliding the insulation between layers of vinyl, but that was difficult to do precisely.
The second challenge was getting the shapes all cut just right. It was enough of a hassle to cut away for the skylights, etc. But dealing with trying to fit rigid rectangles to the compound curvature of a hillside as the sand shifted under your feet was incredibly frustrating.
Then we added the billboard vinyls, which wasn’t too bad. Gluing them with the HH-66 was also pretty straightforward. But once the vinyls were on, the insulation became more difficult to manage. If the underlying layer shifted, it was very difficult to get back exactly how you wanted it (butt jointed with no gaps). It also became much much harder to add the next layer of insulation. Even walking on it was difficult in the steep areas and we kept sliding off. Normally, I would have considered the slide as fun, but it wasted time and messed up the insulation again.
Getting the giant heavy pond liner up there (hardly shown in the video) was also a challenge and dragging it messed up the underlying vinyls and insulation. Pretty stressful actually.
Then the carpet layer helped… It was pretty good in terms of ease of install and its weight actually locked in the underlying layers pretty well while also making it easier to walk around. Most of it was in pretty decent shape and some of it was even brand new (trimming from an install?), but some of it was gross. I recall one had fingernails and other nastiness on it as if it had been stripped from a repossessed home where the evicted tenants were not big on cleaning (I assume people that disgusting were evicted ;).
Regrets
In the end, I had a few regrets.
Primarily, I wished I had put a bit more insulation right up against the vertical sides of the building. It would have been easy to add it there and I wouldn’t have had to worry so much about it after the dirt was added and those steep sections were just so much harder to insulate.
I also wished I had dumpster dived for a couple more carpet loads. It was clear to us that carpet prevented erosion. We only had erosion in the spots that had no carpet. You could see that the erosion stopped in nice square shapes along the edges of the carpet layers. We ended up coming back and adding carpet to those spots, but it was much more work later then it would have been before adding the final dirt.
I am not yet sure if I will regret not putting more insulation. As I said, it is about running out of time and money. Did I insulate enough? Was it thick enough? Did it go out wide enough? Even John Hait says he didn’t think he went wide enough. I think I am OK there, but wonder if I will regret not spending a bit more on insulation at this stage.
Silt Fence
The silt fence was a county requirement with a fine of several thousand dollars if it wasn’t installed after excavation. The regulations include that it should be installed correctly, which requires a trench first so the bottom of the fence can be buried to actually catch any silt that runs off the site. To do this, there is really nothing better than a little tractor with a plow. I highly recommend it to save hours of annoying digging.
One other pro-tip is to screw a piece of scrap wood as a furring strip to the stapled side of each post. Those staples don’t last long and it is much easier to add a strip of wood now that will hold the fabric in place permanently. Or maybe you prefer to go back and fix the fence every few weeks.
Gallery
A gallery of pics… A bit light for this section because no one was feeling like taking pics and it was also difficult to get any good angles on the umbrella anyway.
John chilling for a moment during the hard afternoon.
Sherri on the steepest and trickiest part of the slope.
The little plow from the tractor did a great job forming the trench for the silt fence. Thanks again to the Roe Brothers for loaning it to me.
David was a trooper helping me out that day.
Dumpster diving is fun 😉
Sherri Holding on tight to my belt as I leaned over to put in the screws on the underside of the ledge. It wasn’t something I asked for, but I appreciated the caring 😉
We put lath over the insulation so that a final layer of concrete (stucco) would stick to it.
Building up the layers on the little edge walls.
Sherri glued most of the joints.
We glued the vinyls together with HH-66 vinyl cement. It basically melts them together with a chemical bond.
Follow the instructions and the glued joint is stronger than the rest of the vinyl.
Doing some final gluing with the HH-66
Michael posing for the camera. In the back ground you can see the sand bags we used as weights. Also, the skylight curb got an extra layer to shed water, but its not shown in the video. You will see it in the videos for the final dirt layer.
When you buy a pond liner, they give you a big square. If your pond is round, you cut off the corners. The Roe Brothers (the excavator crew) had kept some pond liner corners from previous jobs they had done and gave some to me. None were large enough to completely cover the roof, but they certainly helped as a bonus layer. The pond liners were definitely more slippery than the vinyls were though.
Keep in mind that the dormers stick out from the actual building underneath, so this is probably covered well enough…
This shot gives you an idea of why it is called an umbrella…
We also built this wall to keep the next layer of dirt off the windows. I think I’ll make that the next video.
David helping me place that last load of carpet.
David messing around for the camera. He lives too close to Detroit.