Our earth sheltered home has some interesting design elements, and at the center of all that is the tower. This post is about how we setup the formwork for the tower and the mezzanine next to it. I’ll tell most of the story in the descriptions in the gallery, but first, the Video…
The Video
The Gallery
Most of the story is in the descriptions
Before we started on the first day, I worked out the dimensions on the back of a pizza box… Here you can see the 4th window that we didn’t end up actually putting into the wall.
A cross section thru the tower and mezzanine
Plan view with more detail then you need right now
Michael using a heat gun to soften the PVC pipe so we could curve it. The heat gun came from HarborFreight and cost about 10$
Curved pipe slipped thru the holes in the steel studs.
Setting up the steel arches so they would be embedded in the wall… The ends were trimmed to fit the bracket on the outside wall.
End of the first day…
John showed up and helped us with the kitchen wall. We figured this was a good time to add this to the task list even if it wasn’t really part of the tower or mezz.
We reused the PVC pipe template to check the rebar curves for that wall.
Sherri overcoming her fear of heights in order to get the Electrical done.
We placed the steel arches on steel angle iron sitting in a pocket on a ledge. The tapcon keeps the bracket from moving left or right until the concrete is in place. The ledge keeps it from moving downward.
We welded the steel arch to the bracket to keep it from twisting, etc.
Steel arches in place will eventually form the structure of this roof section.
To install the windows, we first drilled holes in the steel studs using self tapping screws because they actually work better than drill bits for this application. Once there was a hole, we could back out the self tapping screw and drill another with it. I only used two screws to drill all the holes and that was just because I dropped one. After all the holes were ready, we lifted the wood bucks into place and put wood screws thru the holes into the wood.
Installing the 3rd window.
David pointing this out
While we were working, the turtles in this area were all digging holes and lying eggs. This one was about 1 ft from the house, right outside the window.
Lath washers and screws were used to attach the 4 inches of rigid insulation
Before working on the wall, we tried different things Here I was putting the screws thru some chunks of insulation to see how well they would hold, etc.
On the flip side of the practice piece, you can see that I was originally using bottle caps to catch the screws. We eventually decide they didn’t grip strongly enough and switched to treated wood.
A quick selfie after building the walkway. This walkway will let us build the top half of the mezz safely.
Here the mezz is wrapped in 4 inches of insulation. The gaps with no screws will be cut open to reveal the windows. We did it this way because it made it much easier to get a constant smooth curve.
On the back of the wall, you can see all the little wood blocks that hold the screws on. These were put on the ends of the screws as they came thru…
A closeup of the screws coming thru the wall. After concrete is added, they will also be embedded in the concrete.
Sherri working away on electrical…
At this point, the mezz is mostly done and we are ready to turn our attention to the tower. The original plan was to attach the formwork to these steel studs, but we decided to cut them out and attach directly to the heavy steel columns.
Here we cut the first window out of the insulation
First window in the Mezz
Here is a closeup on the window. This will all be covered in about 3/4 inches of stucco.
Electrical conduit in the corner of the Mezz. These pics will come in handy when we are trying to remember where these tubes are.
Plastic over doors and windows is just to keep the concrete out of those areas.
In this scene, i am using the AdirPro laser to mark the top level of the wall. The insulation actually goes higher than I want the shotcrete to go, so I used the laser to mark the studs and then ran a red wire around the perimeter at the right height. My plan was to ask the shotcrete guys to level it off at that height so I would have room for the quad deck above that… It actually worked out better than I hoped 😉
David in the shop. Often, while moving the time lapse camera around it will catch something interesting. This was one of those times.
This was the final design for the portholes. Basically, an ellipse with a 45 degree champher glued to two circles for 6 inches of total thickness.
We “glued” the XPS layers together with a paint primer called Gliden Gripper. Special effects artists swear it is the best glue for XPS and also happens to be the cheapest and easiest to use.
I made a master ellipse and circle template out of thin plywood and then we traced these out and cut all the pieces out with a band saw…
Sherri showing her latest scratch to the camera.
Michael Jig Sawing out some smaller shelves for the gaps between the concrete ribs.
I wasn’t there for this, but presumably david was playing with Sherri…
Michael setting up the camera for me…
Our formwork for the tower was utility OSB, but we didn’t actually buy many new pieces. The majority was recycled from the previous job.
Taking a short break between panels
Here the tower is mostly done
I was worried that the soft arch tops would deform under the shotcrete load, so I inserted XPS cut to the right radius to hold the shape… Glad I did.
XPS to help the arch hold its shape under load.
These crimped Pex connections are really the best. This blue pipe will carry water up to a hose on the roof.
This is the best way to make pex connections, by far… The only downside is the initial outlay for the tool, so I got a used one. Don’t worry, I still test the connections and can say the tool still works perfectly.
Pex connection wrapped in stucco tape to keep it from corroding in the concrete
Inside the tower
Tower Assembly
All these steel beams are there to keep the loads off the front windows that will line the south side of this building
A boy and his dog borrowed my camera
Our new puppy on site… We named her Sandy.
Lots of building together means lots of time to chat… Even if it is >10 ft off the ground.
A view back toward the mezz from the tower.
I used a laser to line up the heights of all the porthole windows. Instead of a tripod, I stacked wood blocks to get the assembly to exactly the right height.
Here I put the laser glasses over the camera so you could better see the line.
Porthole windows in place
The portholes were screwed to the walls. THe hole in the middle of the circle was because my screws were only 5 inches long and wouldn’t have reached thru all 6 inches.
Window Forms in place
Eventually it was all done
Our structural inspection sheet is very much longer than usual. Our new inspector said it was longer than the Bible.
Our shotcrete guy (who didn’t actually ever come out) said my tower needed bracing. I tried showing him pics of the steel skeleton, but he didn’t understand how rock solid it was and insisted that I also add 2×4 bracing. Waste of time and wood, but I did it anyway.
In prep for our electrical inspection, we setup the boxes, connected with ENT conduit and also had to to run the wires.
Wiring as seen from the inside. You can also see some of the basalt rebar mixed in (the thinner ones)
Here are two types of rebar. The top bar is half inch steel rebar. The lower bar is 3/8ths inch basalt rebar.
Our electrical inspection sheet is also much longer than usual. Good job Sherri.
Sherri passed her electrical inspection.
I wanted to compare 2 laser levels… This is the Bosch
I wanted to compare two laser levels, this is the AdirPro. I think it is slightly better than the Bosch.
For the last mezz wall, we started with the rebar and attached the rigid XPS to that. This is how…
I used the bits I had been cutting out of the boards to form the tower to form these ribs for the ceiling over the stairs.
Then I ran stringers
Then I placed wood over the assembly… Note that I didn’t do too fancy of a job. This is just for the ceiling above the basement stairs and I can stucco over any irregularities it caused.
When you are burying a house, one of the tricky bits is to keep the dirt from spilling where you don’t want it… Like into the doorways. I have a number of retaining walls planned for this build, and, just to keep things interesting, I have designed each one a different way. This section is about the “Heavy Stone” wall by the back door/patio. More details below, but first… the Video
The Video
Cost
I had assumed that those concrete blocks were the cheap way to build a retaining wall and the fancy quarried sandstone was the expensive way. Of course, I probably still would have used some real stone… However, when I looked into it, At least for the cost of the stone, the real stone was cheaper. Of course, that doesn’t factor in things like the cost of the mortar, which was about 5$ per level on my wall, so still not too bad. The real cost of building a wall like this is time… Those precast concrete block walls probably wouldn’t have taken me nearly so much time, but no regrets on choosing to do this one the hard way.
Engineering
Retaining walls often fail. Keys to keeping this one from going down included…
Wide heavy stones (heavy stone is actually what they called this size at the quarry) that are substantial and want to stay where you put them.
Leaning the wall back against the earth load. Before the earth can tip your wall over, it would first need to straighten it out. Gravity helps you keep things as they are.
Curving the wall against the earth makes it a lot harder for the earth to tip it over, just as it is harder for a mug to tip over than for a domino. Making the wall concave helps even further because the loads against it are in compression, something that the stone handles with ease.
Behind the wall, I had plenty of drainage. Drain gravel, landscaping fabric and HDPE corrugated/perforated drain tube were working to make sure that water pressure never gets a chance to build up behind the wall.
Layers of carpet were also used in the dirt behind the wall. This “geo-textile” idea is used by highway engineers to keep dirt from shifting under ramps. I would have liked to have used more layers, but some is better than none.
I watched lots of videos online about how to build a retaining wall that lasts. I recommend anyone who is planning to build there own do the same, and don’t be tempted to take shortcuts.
The Gallery
Here is a gallery of pics with detailed captions.
Here is the delivery. I paid 80$ per pallet, plus something (like 120$?) for the truck to deliver all the pallets.
Here are some more standard concrete retaining wall blocks. If you check the top right, you can see how many linear ft you get per block and calculate how many square ft of wall you would get per dollar. When I compared this with the cost of my quarried sand stone, my sand stone was about half the price.
Before I could bury the garage, I needed a retaining wall, but before the retaining wall, I needed some stucco over these fox blocks… This is just the scratch coat.
Partway thru the stucco job, I checked to see if the camera was still on. This is apparently how I look after a couple hours of night stucco work. (after finishing my regular work day and driving out to the site).
To get a gentle curve, I put down a 20ft long piece of 1/2 inch PVC going thru the marks I had made earlier. Then I put down mortar and started laying blocks.
After a few rows, the wall was already looking interesting and I was already learning.
After the wall was a few blocks high, I back filled for drainage. I also covered this all in landscapers fabric to keep the sand out. Actually, I came back later and filled the whole area with drain gravel, it is easy to use too much when you have a skid steer bucket and order by the dump truck.
After dark it starts to get harder to find the right stones. This evening I probably only got 3 layers in.
The 3rd evening, I got another 3 layers in before it was too dark to find rocks…
The rocks were all aligned against the front of the wall, but the back looked considerably messier. To sort that out, I used my mortar sprayer to shoot mortar over the back of the wall and fill all those cracks. I did it at several stages, this was the first. No pics of the actual shooting because I was busy at the time.
More progress… By this point, I had most of the basics down and things were moving along nicely.
Another pic…
Once the wall reached a certain height, I put these “benches” up against it. We had first made these for the ICF blocks.
Sometimes the kids seek out the camera to get a self pic or just wave at me.
Kids love climbing on walls. However, it can be a problem if the mortar isn’t set yet. This day it was before we started on the wall though.
You can see we have extended the platform. I also added wooden blocks to make it easier to scramble up, but I usually used the ladder.
Random pic
We named our dog Sandy to fit in to the site better. She loves getting up high and looking around.
Sandy chilling on the wall while I worked…
This is how it looks from the ground. I plan to add moss, creepers, etc.
I have always been a big fan of Copper roofs, especially when they patina. Copper roofs last hundreds of years and just look so much more interesting than asphalt ones. Problem is that they are just too expensive. But with my earth sheltered home project, I was going to have very few square ft of roof, so copper suddenly became affordable again. Making the tiles myself would also significantly reduce the cost. For this first part, I was really just wanting to put a copper cap on the front and back ridge of the garage. This post is about how I did that. At some other point, I may also make diamond tiles to cover a few hundred feet of regular roof… But first, this video
The Video
Alternatives
I had put stucco on the front and back of the garage and this ridge cap was to cover the 12-inch ridge along the top of the shotcrete wall… Looking back, I could have done it a few other ways. For instance, I could have just wrapped the top of the wall in lath and then just put stucco right up over the ridge. Another option would have been to put tile up along the ridge.
I had planned to use copper shingles for all the skylight caps also, but now that I am older and wiser, I plan to just cap the second skylight on the garage with copper and switch to using large format tiles (that I can get for about 1$/sqft) on the other 5 skylight curbs.
The tools
The Press Break Roll was pretty fun to use and getting it 40% off from Harbor Freight made it even better. One of these days I’ll put more details about it under the “tools” section of this website and maybe make a more focused video. In the meantime, I can put the original crate back on top of it to keep the dust off so it is ready to use next time I am in the mood.
Along with that, I needed a nice mallet for pounding the copper, good aviation snips for cutting it, pliers, etc. Generally speaking, pretty standard stuff.
The Gallery
Pictures help tell the story, so I put a bunch in the description of each image… Enjoy.
Here is my new press break roll. It weighs about 300 lbs and I was taking a break after getting it from the back of my truck to the top of the wheel barrow. Next I would need to get it up onto that wheeled cart I made just for this purpose…
Here I am using the Press function of the Harbor Freight Brake-Press-Roll to cut pieces from the copper coil.
The Brake on the Harbor Freight tool worked pretty well. Here I am lining up the second point in my fold line…
This front cap was my first attempt, lessons were learned as mistakes were made along the way, but I still enjoyed it.
Here is one of the tiles from the first section… Mistakes included that I didn’t fold down the top corners of the tabs, so they got in the way as the tiles started needing to curve back down… I also didn’t make the drip edge significant enough…
Here we are coming up the north west side…
The Go Pro caught this shot of me looking tired but satisfied after finishing the copper cap on the front of the garage.
Here is a close up of the last tile on the front. You can see the rivets used to hold it all together (in addition to the folds)
This section of the FoxBlocks leaked a bit and made an ugly lump that would have shown thru the copper. I chiseled it out and refilled with smooth mortar. Here Michael is troweling it off.
The Go Pro also caught this pic. Not sure why we are both looking at the camera. Maybe it was on purpose. 😉
The copper after it was placed over the smoothed ridge…