Simon

Erecting the steel for the radial vaults

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Posted on July 6, 2018 by

 

This post is all about erecting the steel arches and rebar for the radial roof vaults.  This process took us a few weeks to get done and really looked great.  I’ll put details and a lot of pictures down below, but first, the time lapse videos…

The Video(s)

Yes, I had to break this one into two videos.

Here is the first 6 vaults going in…


And here are the remaining 4 and a final walk thru.

The Gallery

A picture is worth a thousand words, so lets talk about things in the context of a gallery…

Stucco For the Bedrooms

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Posted on January 20, 2018 by

This post has two videos (because I had too much footage) and a lot of good pics in the gallery.

The videos

The first video is about applying the scratch coat.  This actually took most of the time because we spent a lot of time trying to make everything nice and smooth over the rough shotcrete and lath walls.  After getting the wall the right shape, we would use a special tool to “scratch” the stucco so that the next layer would have nice ridges to grip on to.  Here is that video.

The second video is for the brown coat.  This is a smoother coat that we applied over the scratch coat.  It was easier because most of the work to get the right shape was done with the previous layer, but it did have the challenge of getting a nice smooth finish, which was particularly tricky because we were not out there for enough hours at a time…  Here is the video to explain.

The lessons learned

We really learned a lot of useful stuff while doing this project and it certainly can’t fit into the videos, but I’ll try to put some of it here….

I’ll come back and fill this in later (promises promises)

The Gallery

This is the part most of you wanted to see anyway…  I try to tell a story with the captions.

Burial Phase 2

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Posted on October 1, 2017 by

 

In the previous two segments, we put dirt over the shotcrete and then added our waterproof insulating umbrella.  In this segment, we put an additional layer of dirt over our umbrella, then plant grass and work on the retaining walls.

For your viewing pleasure, here is the timelapse video…

Video

Lessons learned

  1. As always, not everything makes it into the videos.  One part that didn’t quite make it was adding the layer of blocks along the top edge of the wall above the back door.  That wall is an ICF wall, basically 6 inches of reinforced concrete poured between two sides of insulation.  We put a good amount of blue max waterproofing on the top edge and then I made sure that the billboard vinyls (17 mill reinforced)  also overlapped the edge and I mortared 3 layers (about 12 inches) of block along the top edge to hold it all in place…  I thought this would be good enough.  However, water finds a way…  It was able to get between the ICFs and the concrete and run down the inside of my wall all winter…  I’ll need to tear those blocks off and put in some continuous metal flashing at some point.
  2. When we started laying it out, I assumed that the experts would know what to do.  Of course, they were pretty uncomfortable with my not having a detailed plan, but were nice enough to work with me. So, the first lesson learned was that I really should have come with a plan and not put that on the contractor.  As it turned out, I really didn’t bring enough blocks to for that back wall.  Some sort of math problem. So that was my second mistake.  The compromise solution was to turn the blocks side ways and lean them back against the hill…  I know this is not ideal and I already expect a lot of negative comments on Youtube.  I decided the only way to overcome that was to put a lot of concrete and rebar behind the blocks to tie them together and form a continuous dam.  This chewed up a bunch of time, but it is over a year (two winters and two springs) later and the wall is so solid that the mortar hasn’t even cracked.

 

Other tricks up my sleeve

Sherri was concerned that someone would fall off that boulder wall, in fact, she always calls it the “death wall”.  She insisted that I put a rail along the top and bottom edge.  I wanted that rail to be as slender as possible and decided I could use copper pipe for posts and rails.  This isn’t against code if I don’t put a walking path within 6 ft of the rail.  When used as the posts, the copper pipe would be much easier than a wooden post to attach to the boulders…  Just drill it in.  The problem is that it wasn’t really stiff enough.  I found that “L type” copper pipe was quite a bit thicker and stronger, but I still wouldn’t want to rely on it.  I also found that 1/2 inch L copper fits almost perfectly inside 3/4 inch L copper…  This made it more than twice as stiff, especially if I filled the gap with epoxy…  So that is what I did.  The last problem was that the holes were not drilled perfectly vertical (that is harder to do than you might think), so you see they are a bit off plumb at the start, but later we were able to bend them vertical.

The Gallery

Here are some pics, mostly just old scenes since this wasn’t really a photogenic stage.  Enjoy.